Orion M.C.

First things first: Neil and I managed to traverse the Cullin ridge on Saturday and Sunday and whilst it was very hard, it was also very very cool. There was not a cloud in the sky for the entire period and I thought the Cuillins must derive their name because they are just sooo cool (as all of you propably know, but I didn't really appreciate as I only had seen them unveiled once for a day three years ago). I think its definitely been one of the most adventurous things I have done and was very good fun. Thanks to Neil for all his route finding and leading the climbs and patience in my few moments of dread.

Team I - Neil and me started about 8ish from the camp site, heading up Coir a’ Ghrunnda closely followed by ‘Team II’: Julian, Andy, Gordon and Jennifer, arranging to meet up somewhere along the reverse journey to Gars Bheinn.

Progress was pretty good at that point as backpacks where light (for a little while)…they turned somehow into winter climbing packs after stocking up with water in the Ghrunnda Lochan but were quickly afterwards dumped on the ridge to have a really nice, pleasant easy scramble south to Gars Bheinn. I still couldn’t believe our luck with the weather and was totally amazed with the views…treated ourselves to some sunbathing time on the comfy grassy summit of Gars Bheinn – Neil briefing my confused mind (too many complicated names) on the surrounding topography and the journey ahead…

On the way back we met up with Team II on the summit of Sgurr nan Eag and travelled more or less together for a while, but realised that travelling in a group of six with different climbing speeds and ambitions is fairly time consuming, so we split up at Caisteal a Garbh-choire, Andy, Gordon and Jennifer taking the variation avoiding the TD gap whilst Julian, Neil and me headed for it. Arriving there we found a long queue of people…it took 1,5 hours to wait for our allotted slot and Julian had in the meantime decided that he better return to catch up with the other three as he was supposed to meet them at the west ridge of Scurr Alasdair…

Neil lead the TD gap fine despite his earlier worries…I followed less fine, struggling and cursing my backpack…I will not climb that again with a pack on, in a hurry. I felt rather shaky afterwards but the pretty evening sky from the top of Sgurr Alasdair helped a little…
Nevertheless I think both Neil and me felt the stress of climbing the TD gap still in our bones when descending off Terry (Thearlich) and climbing up the Kings Chimney towards the summit of Micky (Sgurr Mhic…) – (oh these names), which Neil did a good job leading it - still ecstatic about having the TD gap 'out of the way', and then treated ourselves to a long sunset + dinner break on a sheltered summit terrace.

In the last leg of the day we headed over to Sgurr Dearg arriving around 10ish to a fabulous red sunset over the misty Outer Hebrides…a grassy spot to stretch your legs, no midges, no more exercise required for the day…paradise…

- for about 15 minutes or so…

Then it got really cold and windy and stayed really cold and windy for the next 7 hours or so - not quite so much paradise. I was told afterwards that Team II had a nice warm night elsewhere on the ridge…Neither me nor Neil really shared that experience with a windy bivvy spot and a much weight-reduced sleeping kit…anyway I was keen to get up and get warm just after 5am, which made for a very efficient morning…’ticked’ the Inn Pin around 6.30 without queuing but with a hell of a lot of wind instead, Benny (Banachdicht=Benedict=Benny) at 8am and Greedy (Sgurr a Ghreadaidh) at 9am before sitting down for breakfast somewhat warmed up…

By that time I was very pleased with our progress and thought we would be in the pub for a late lunch. I did not want to hear Neil’s doubts...

I leave the middle section to Neil as I don’t really have any distinguishable memories of the route, just that it was bloody hard, bloody long and bloody exposed.
I don’t know how many curses I uttered, especially on the downclimbs but it was more than I usually would use in a year’s time I think…

Anyway…
I was extremely happy to have reached Sgurr nan Gillian at 6ish together with some other groups which we had kept overtaking each other in the past two days. I convinced Neil that a pint in the Slichagan is the true finish line of the ridge traverse and a much better ending than a 11km walk back to Glen Brittle…
I then made the mistake of indulging into happiness and relaxation on the summit and thought the way down along the ‘tourist route’ was easy enough to walk with my hands in my pockets (should have read my guidebook more thoroughly)…and that was when I was caught out in a last fit of cursing+ fright at the constant exposure…Neil had a bit of a hard time convincing me that an awkward climb down some steep slabs was apparently much easier than a lot of stuff that we had done earlier in the day…(didn’t agree)…being rather tired...

All good that ends good...Drinks and food in the Sliggy it was - just before 9pm and a quick lift back to the campsite to exchange stories with Team II…
It took us 29 hours from Glenbrittle to Slichagan, which is just 1 hrs under my 30hrs estimated worst-case szenario…or 23 hrs from Gars Bheinn to Scurr nan Gillian and included several ‘great-weather+bank holiday-weekend’ traffic jams at the TD gap and Naithmiths Route of more than 2 hrs altogether…

On Sunday Andy, Neil, Jennifer, Jen, Callum, their friend (Graham?) and me had a lovely morning lazing about on the camp site…sunshine, no midges (!!!!), quiet guitar music, eating…what a stunning place to be, what stunning mountains to look at....Life is good.

We started heading home early in the afternoon and Neil made a pleasant de-tour to the Brochs of Glen Elk for the Australian/ German tourist contingency amongst his passengers, even though the guiding was somewhat not quite as good as along the ridge.

PS: Sorry lost my camera recently, so no pics from me.

Silke, your description of the ridge traverse is so much more interesting and detailed than Cameron McPish's - you don't need photos (altough I am sure Gordon will oblige shortly). Well done! I am verdant with envy.

Superb achievement by both of you. We only did three of the easier summits and I was pure 'brickin' myself. I can only imagine how difficult the rest must have been. - Well done!

Looks like you lot had a fantastic weekend. I am very very jealous, very green with envy!!!!!!!

Well done Sike and Neil...the weather was perfect for a ridge traverse and you can only imagine how envious I am We were camping at the weekend on the coast near Arisaig and had cracking views of Rum, Eigg and Skye and we could pick out all the main features on the Cuillin Ridge. I spent my time constantly wondering where abouts you were on the ridge.

Martine, forgot to say that we missed you extremely on Monday morning...surprice delicacies from your secret recipe book would have made it just about 200% perfect. Hope the wedding was nice at least.
Oh, must say that I increased my 'Munro count' by a fab 30% in just one weekend...
Scott: would definetely love to go back later in the year to go up the Dubhs Ridge (only in Sunshine, though. I am spoiled now). It looked so nice. As did Loch Coruisk.

Ah, had I been there, I would have had a secret stash of gastronomic goodies for sharing with you all! Silke, at least your appetite for summer climbing has been whetted, and I should very much like to go to Skye (yes, and in the sun too!) and get up close to all that lovely rock.

Sunbathing on Gars-Bheinn




Rush hour at the T-D gap



Sgurr na Banachdich



Abseiling on Bidein Druim nan Ramh



On the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean

Boy...were you lucky with the weather or what Congratulations

Some great pics too.............especially the last one above

Sounds like a great couple of days were had by all.
I was lucky enough to do the ridge 4 years ago. Our first obstacle was overcoming hangovers brought on by bumping into a couple of friends as we were about to leave the Slig at a sensible 10.00 pm on the Friday night. So after a few (more) sociable pints of Red Cuillin we staggered over to the campsite sometime after midnight. The alarm clock was set for 4.00am and when it rang I was almost disappointed to see that it was a fine morning and sleeping on was not an option. My friend Fergus was equally impressed, but we did eventually get our act together and he decided that a day out was far more important than than keeping his driving licence, so he took the gamble and drove down to Glen Brittle. We headed up through Coir' a' Ghrunnda and dumped the packs on the ridge. Now hangover free we trotted over to Sgurr nan Eag. We missed the sunrise but it was shaping up to be a nice day.



The above pic is Fergus on the TD gap just about the point where he asked himself why he'd put his harness on but left the rope in his pack!





We were really lucky and had the gap to ourselves and then only saw one other party between there and the Inn Pin. Again luck was on our side and scrambled to the top to bump into a very helpful guy who offered us his rope to abseil off.
Lunch was somewhere between Sgurr a Ghreadaidh and Sgurr a Mhadaidh.
I'd only been on the South half of the ridge so we were now relying on Fergus' dreadful sense of direction and despite having done the route just a few years previously he couldn't remember a thing about it so we did take a few wrong turns.





I can't remember too much about the afternoon but the weather held and we got to the top of Sgurr nan Gillean. We then had a slightly panicky race back to the Slig thinking that as this was Scotland food would not be served after 8.00pm, but luckily enough they were serving 'till 9.00pm (wish there were more like this) and we were in time for a much needed feed.

great description silke and the photos were great too. quite jealous even though we were out in morocco!

martina and did the ridge in a day a few years ago. I think there are advantages and disadvantages in doing it in one day or two. we were able to travel very light which is quite handy when the legs begin to tire. also we did it in the other direction which meant that by the time we got to the busy bits - inn pin and TD gap- it was evening and we saw no-one.

anyway, we are considering another trip this summer in the other direction but probably in a day again. that skye ridge bivvy will have to wait!

brian